
COPiiRIGHT DEPOSffi 



Preparation and Care 

= OF A = 

Garden for 
Vegetables 



Second Edition 



CttMBU^ED BY 



THOMAS GRAHAM GRIER 
FRED h. MINGE 






Copyright 1920 

BY 

Thomas Graham Grier 



^l^fi 29 1920 

g;Gl.A566347 



J- 



INTRODUCTION 



In 1916 a corn field was turned into a garden. In 1917 Mr. Fred 
L. Minge, an experienced gardener, and myself, compiled information 
based on results, and published it in pamphlet form. There was a 
demand for it. 

Mr. D. J. Brumley, one of the most successful owners of a garden 
and one of the officers of the Illinois Central R. R., has taken the 
original publication, reviewed, enlarged and amplified it. Mr. Brumley 
is recognized by his neighbors as being an authority on gardens — and 
the gardens of Flossmoor are among the finest in Cook County. 

The following introduction was written by Mr. Brumley. 

THOMAS GRAHAM GRIER, 

Flossmoor, 111. 



The newspapers of 1916 advised every one who either owned or 
could lease a small plot of ground to have a garden and raise vegeta- 
bles. 

The slogan, "Food will win the war, don't waste it," suggested 
by the Federal Government, was enthusiastically accepted by all loyal 
citizens. Gardens were prepared and planted on the back lots of city 
homes, on vacant property, in the suburbs and on vacant strips of 
railroad right-of-way. The impetus given by this movement has not 
yet spent itself. Many of those who had their first gardening ex- 
perience three years ago, are now confirmed and will continue for 
the exercise and pleasure it affords and the supply of delicious vegeta- 
bles it insures. 

The war has been won and those who rolled up their sleeves, dug 
in the ground and raised good things to eat did their part. The re- 
construction period is not over. There exists the same necessity for 
raising food and not wasting it, as at the time our nation was pre- 
paring to do her part in the titanic struggle raging in Europe. The 
High Cost of Living must be beaten into submission. The starving 
people in the war-stricken countries must be fed. Greater demands 
will be made on our country for food. This will place our people in 
competition with those of our allies and enemies as well. A certain 

3 



way of keeping prices within reason is to produce more in this country 
than ever before. The gardener now will contribute his share in re- 
construction if he will surpass his records of former years and produce 
at least seventy-five per cent of the vegetables needed in his own home. 

Some war gardens were successful, others were failures. The 
failures were in the minority. It was clearly demonstrated that ''back 
to nature" is the instinctive trait of most of us. Had the war gard- 
eners been given help at the right time, failures would have been rare 
indeed. 

The following pages have been compiled for the purpose of sug- 
gesting first aid to those who may need some help. The methods have 
been tried out in a practical way and are suitable for this region, 25 
miles south of Chicago, Illinois. The suggestions would not apply to 
places having seasonal ranges differing much from those in this local- 
ity. The effect of latitude, altitude, proximity of large bodies of water 
and other peculiar local conditions must be given due weight. 

It is thought the practical experience of those who compiled these 
pages would be helpful to those who are in earnest and desire to gather 
the reward of their labors. 

D. J. BRUMLEY. 



DESIGNING AND PREPARING A GARDEN 

Everyone who has a garden, be it ever so small, helps to increase 
the supply of food. 

This pamphlet is based upon the experience of operating a garden 
within 24 miles of the city of Chicago, the information in this pamphlet 
would not be correct for locations farther south or north. 

However, it may be of value when supplemented with local con- 
ditions — seasons are longer or shorter according to the latitude — and 
certain vegetables mentioned are not adapted for other climates — 
while there are vegetables not mentioned that are. 

A plan of the garden should be carefully worked out. This can be 
done in the winter when there is plenty of spare time available. The 
dimensions of the garden should be obtained, a plat made to a con- 
venient scale and the garden rows laid off on the plat and numbered. 
The succession of crops can be carefully thought out in advance and 
thus provided for. The permanent beds containing asparagus, rhu- 
barb, mint, horseradish, and other perennials should be placed to- 
gether in one corner or one end of the garden where they will be out 
of the way of the spring or fall spading and plowing. After the 
ground is prepared in the spring and before any planting is done, the 
rows having been numbered on the plat should be staked out on the 
ground and both ends of the row marked with a numbered stake. If 
this is done, any rows in the garden can be located when the appro- 
priate time for planting arrives and thereby avoid embarrassing mis- 
takes and duplications. When the garden is of considerable extent, it 
would be well to lay out the rows so as to make horse cultivation 
practicable. 

The home garden often is usually placed in the rear of the home 
buildings within the enclosure. It is desirable that the garden site be 
laid out in regular lines so that it will present a neat appearance. The 
taller growing plants should be put in that part of the garden 
farthest away from buildings and serve as a background, and the 
smaller growing plants in front. If the garden adjoins the lawn a 
hedge of rather tall hardy flowering annuals such as zinnias or mari- 
golds placed along the border will give a distinctive setting and serve 
to improve the appearance of the garden. 

The rows should preferably be laid out in a north and south direc- 
tion particularly for the taller growing plants. Rows thus planted 
afford a better distribution of sunlight, so essential to the growth and 
maturity of such plants as tomatoes. Care should be taken to space 
the rows far enough apart to prevent the taller plants shading the 
smaller ones. 

Assuming' the ground had never been used as a garden. 

Garden truck, or vegetables, need rich soil. 

If the plot of ground is large enough, and a farmer with a team 
and plow is available, have the ground plowed in the fall. 



If the garden plot is small, instead of having it plowed, in the 
fall, have it spaded. 

Before plowing or spading, spread over the ground a covering of 
rotted manure. If rotted manure is not to be had, fresh manure will 
answer. 

This manure is to be plowed under, so it will decompose, and in 
the spring the soil will be light and workable ; the soil will also have 
the nourishment in it that the vegetables require. 

If the garden is full of cutworms and insects, scatter a thin coat 
of air slacked lime over it in the spring — unslacked lime can be scat- 
tered in the fall. 

When the spring opens, the garden soil must be pulverized before 
planting. This is done when the plot is large enough to plow with a 
disk machine or harrow. If it is a small garden, it can be done with a 
rake or a hand cultivator. 

"When the ground is heavy or soggy, the soil can be benefited by 
the use of a thin coat of bone meal in the rows where the plants or 
seed are placed. The bone meal has the necessary plant food in it, 
and also seems to keep the soil loose around the roots. 

In case it is decided to start a garden in the spring when no 
preparations had been made in the fall, it can be done. 

First, it will be found that the ground is very tough and hard to 
work. However, by a little greater effort, the ground can be broken 
up and when so done — either by spading or plowing — manure should 
be worked into the ground. Rotted manure would be best, but fresh 
manure can be used. 

New ground always seems to have cutworms in it, but a slight 
amount of lime scattered over the ground after spading or plowing 
apparently kills the cutworms. 

The purpose of the lime on the soil is to neutralize the acidity of 
the soil, but from practical experience, it has been demonstrated that 
the cutworms do not thrive in soil that has lime in it. 

Lime is not a fertilizer, however, it is an active agent which re- 
leases the "plant food" from the soil so that the plants obtain nourish- 
ment readily. Too much lime will make vegetation grow very rapidly 
and exhaust the soil. 

Soil which has much organic matter in it, that is, decayed vegeta- 
tion, is sour or acid, and that is often the condition of new soil. Soil 
should be tested to determine if it is too acid to grow garden plants 
successfully. The test is made by placing a strip of blue litmus paper 
which can be obtained at any drug store, pressed into a ball of moist 
soil. If the paper turns red acids are present and therefore the use of 
lime is advisable. 

Drainage is a prime essential. A tile under-drain placed two feet 
or more below the surface of the ground will give best results and does 
not mar the general appearance of the garden as open ditches do. If 
an outlet for the tile drain can not be obtained open ditches should 
be used. This can be accomplished by planting in beds fifteen feet or 



so apart, and surface drainage obtained by opening furrows or paths 
a spading in depth and a foot or eighteen inches in width. 

When new land is plowed in the spring, it must be harrowed or 
cut with a disk machine, when ground is dry enough, so that there 
will be no lumps in it, and the ground will be loose and mealy. If 
done when it is wet, it gets sticky and lumpy. 

When ground is spaded, it must afterwards be raked and made 
loose and mealy before planting and seeding. 

Wood ashes, that is, the ashes from a wood fire, contain plant food, 
and is good for the soil. The soil should be firm enough to prevent too 
rapid evaporation of moisture. Failure to get a stand of plants is 
frequently due to cloddy, lumpy earth which permits it to dry out 
quickly and prevents the soil particles from coming completely in 
contact with the seed. Soil is in proper condition for planting when 
each tiny particle is surrounded with a film of moisture. 

Ashes from a coal fire can be used when the soil is clayey and 
sticky, but it is not for fertilizer. Just the fine ashes are to be used 
and mixed in the soil for the purpose of breaking up the soil and re- 
moving the stickiness. 

In placing plants and seeds in the garden, some may be sowed in 
the garden, and others have to.be raised in hot-houses or hot-beds. 

Thinning is a needful thing. Often the tendency is to plant too 
close together in the row. There must be room enough between the 
plants to admit of development. If crowded too much the crop will 
not be representative specimens. Thinning should be done before the 
plants have attained very much growth, as pulling out large plants 
will disturb the root system of those nearest. 

If sowing is done in the garden by hand, care should be taken to 
distribute the seed at about the same spacing as the plants should 
grow. A little more time and care used in sowing will save many 
hours, thinning if too thick or replanting or transplanting if too thin. 
When the seed trench is filled in, the soil should be made firm either 
with the back of a hoe or treading foot over foot along the row. This 
will embed the seed firmly in the soil and will serve to retain the 
moisture so necessary for germination. 

Sometimes the rainfall is not sufficient to keep plants in a healthy 
growing condition and, at times, it is necessary to supply moisture. 
Some care must be taken. Watering should be done late in the day. 
It is advisable to use water about the same temperature as the air, 
say 60 to 65 degrees. If done then the soil will soak up the water 
through the night and will reach the roots of the plant. To sprinkle, 
water sufficient to moisten the soil, a half inch will do very little good 
and sometimes will work an injury. Surface sprinkling will cause the 
rootlets to grow toward the surface where the moisture is. When a 
plat is watered it should be soaked. Then when the surface is dry 
enough it should be cultivated, leaving the surface well pulverized 
and fine. This condition of the surface will tend to conserve the 
moisture. 

Some work of transplanting, such as late cabbage and late celery, 
will come during the last of June and early in July. If the ground is 



not moist it should be watered the day before the plants are set out. 
The plants should be set out late the following day and well watered. 
After the water has soaked in the soil, dry surface dirt pulled around 
the plants will retard evaporation. If the weather is hot the plants 
should be shaded for a day or two. Newspapers can be placed over 
the individual plants, or a plank over deep trenches such as celery. 
The covering should be removed at night to give the plants the benefit 
of moisture or dew from the air. 

Many plants that are raised in hot houses and hot-beds, may be 
started in a house in small boxes. The boxes placed on supports near 
windows with southern exposures. 

The mention of the possibility of accomplishing the same result 
with plants in houses is made, because in starting a small garden one 
may not have a hot-bed, or hot-house available. 

The temperature of the room should be at least 60 degrees, where 
the small boxes of plants are kept, a little higher temperature would 
be beneficial. 

To start plants in the house, use flower pots, when the plants are 
very few ; and small boxes about 4 in. deep and 18 in. square when a 
number of plants are to be raised. 

These pots and boxes should be filled with rich soil. The prepara- 
tion of this soil will be given in the description of a hot-bed. This 
soil could be secured from your florist. The florist always prepares a 
lot of soil for hot-house and hot-bed seed and plants. 

When the flower pots or small boxes are in a house, no manure 
needs to be put under the prepared soil, as is necessary in a hot-bed. 
The temperature of the house furnishes the heat, which in a hot-bed 
comes from the chemical decomposition of the manure. 

HOT-BED 

A hot-bed is an enclosure with a glass top, for the purpose of 
raising plants for transplanting in gardens. 

The top is a sash, like a window-pane. The standard sash for a 
hot-bed is 3 feet by 6 feet. 

The hot-bed is a box, usually made of planks. The north side of 
the box is 6 inches higher than the south side, as this permits the sun 
to shine into the hot-bed. 

The depth of the inside of the hot-bed on the south side, should be 
2 feet, and on the north side, 2 feet 6 inches. The box should be sunk 
into the ground about one foot, and the ground taken out of the hot- 
bed should be banked up around the outside. 

The ends should slant from the north to the south, so that when 
the sash is laid on, it will fit snugly. 

To prepare the ground for the hot-bed, take garden soil, if not 
sandy, but clay loam; take one shovel full of sand to ten of soil, and 
three of old rotted manure, and mix in the fall, and let it lie over the 
winter. 

In the spring or middle part of March, put in a layer of fresh 

8 



horse manure about 16 inches — this gives the heat — tamp it down well. 
Over this spread six inches of the mixed soil. This soil should go 
through a sieve, so that there are no lumps, sticks, or stones in it. 

This will bring the soil within two inches from the sash. Put on 
the sash and let it stand from two to three weeks, as this will allow 
your manure and ground to settle, and the surface of the ground will 
be about 8 inches from the sash. 

The weeds will sprout, and should be raked, so that the sun will 
kill them before putting in the seed. 

If there is danger of cold nights in the early spring, the glass 
sash should be covered with a heavy blanket before sunset, and it 
should be removed as soon as the sun is up. 

The plants need the sunshine and daylight, and also, need as much 
protection as possible against cold. North winds are always hard on 
plants in hot-beds, in the spring — guard against the cold. 

To start a hot-bed in March or April, you must have manure for 
heat, otherwise, artificial heat must be supplied, and in such cases a 
hot-house becomes necessary. 



COLD-FRAME 

When the hot-bed becomes crowded, potted plants and those which 
are placed in boxes, may be moved to cold frame. 

A cold-frame is similar to a hot-bed, but is usually only one foot 
deep, if built on the level of the ground. 

The north side is built 18 inches high, the south side 12 inches 
high, the ends slanted, and is built so that the glass sash, same as the 
hot-bed, can be placed on the cold-frame. 

There is no soil put in the cold-frame. It is simply a shelter to 
protect the plants from the winds and the frosty nights. 

If the days are warm and the sun shines, the sash is lifted 3 to 4 
inches so that the air can circulate. 

When one is raising a lot of plants, the hot-bed becomes crowded, 
and the cold-frame is needed. 



ARTICHOKE 

Helianthus Tuberosus 

This vegetable can be grown successfully on thin soil, but better 
crops result if fertilized. The tubers are planted and cultivated the 
same way as Irish potatoes. They are planted as early in the spring 
as weather conditions will permit, in rows 3 feet apart with the tubers 
from 12 to 15 inches apart in the row. When the tops die, the tubers 
are ready for use. They can be taken up and stored in the root cellar 
or left in the ground all winter. 



ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus Officinalis 

This plant is not suitable for harvest until three years old. 

Asparagus is a perennial, which comes up every year from the 
roots. 

When starting a garden, it is customary to purchase two-year- 
old roots but if one wishes to start the plant from seed, it can be 
done so. 

To plant Asparagus seed, make a trench (May 1st) four inches 
deep — sow seed thinly, cover trench to the level of the ground. If 
more than one row is desired, the rows should be placed 2 feet apart. 
Water freely until plants appear above ground. 

In about 4 weeks the plants will peep above the ground, and at 
this time one should begin cultivating the soil, and keep it clear of 
all other growth, as this is very important after the seed has sprouted. 
It is not necessary to water though, except in real dry weather. 

There is nothing more to do. The tops will die in the fall and 
sprout again the next spring, when the ground must be cultivated 
just as in the previous summer — this is the second year. 

Early in the spring following, the roots are two years old, and 
must be transplanted or replanted. 

To Plant Asparagus Roots Two Years Old 

When the root grown from the seed is two years old, it is taken 
up and replanted to a greater depth as follows: 

Make a trench 15 inches deep and 10 inches wide at the top. 
If more than one row is to be planted, the trenches should be 3 feet 
apart. Fill in with 4 inches of good rich soil, place the roots on 
top of this soil — roots placed about 8 inches apart. 

Cover the roots with about 6 inches of soil, as tlrere is to be no 
showing of the roots. 

When the stalk of the Asparagus grows to a height of 6 inches, 
fill in with about 3 inches more of the earth in the trench, and keep 
adding gradually a little more earth as the plants grow, until the 
trench is filled to the level of the ground. 

The ground must be kept raked and loose and free from all 
other growth. It must, also, be sprinkled from the latter part of 
May, through the month of June, 

Asparagus is ready for cutting from the latter part of May 
through June, After June, Asparagus gets too hard for table use — 
then the plant may be allowed to grow up for seed, but if cut off, 
it benefits the root and the next year the asparagus tops will be 
larger. 

Every fall the Asparagus bed should be loosened up, by digging 
and manure spread over the top of the ground after it is dug up. 

Asparagus has two rather serious enemies: the beetles and their 
offspring operate on the plants through the entire growing season. 

10 



During the period of cutting they can be controlled by sprinkling 
the plant with air-slacked lime or pyrethrum. Another method of 
control during the cutting season is to allow several lure plants to 
grow and spray them with arsenate of lead. After the cutting season 
control by spraying with arsenate of lead. Rust appears as a reddish 
brown dust on the leaflets and stems. Spraying with bordeaux is the 
most effective remedy to apply. When the stems are removed in the 
fall they should be burned at once. 

BEANS 
Vicia, Phaseolus 

All kinds of beans can be planted from May 15th to July 1st. 

Beans are affected by the slightest frost, and if planted after July 
1st, they may not mature before there is a liability of frost. 

Beans are seeded directly into the garden. To plant beans, make 
a small trench about three inches deep and put from three to four 
beans together — have the space between the little groups of beans 
twelve inches apart — and cover the trench to the level of the garden. 

If more than one row is planted, place the rows 18 inches apart. 

The plants will appear above the ground in 5 to 8 days. 

The early planting of the beans, do not need watering, but as the 
season advances, the ground begins to lose its moisture, so beans 
planted after June 1st should be soaked in water over night before 
planting. 

When the plants are from three to four inches high, the ground 
must be cultivated and kept clear of other growths. Do not cultivate 
or pick while there is dew on the plants. 

If the season is dry, the vines must be sprinkled at sunset or late 
in the afternoon. 

The Navy Bean is planted the latter part of June for the best 
results. Navy beans that mature in the hot weather are frequently 
attacked by a small black bug which eats into the heart of the bean. 

The pole or climbing bean must be supported on sticks or brush. 
It can be planted where corn is growing after the corn is two feet high, 
and it will use the corn-stalk for its support. 

All beans, except Navy Beans, or beans that are allowed to grow 
for seed, should be picked when they are young and tender. 

Anthracnose is a common fungus disease which attacks the tender 
young plants and later the pods, showing as brown spots. Spraying 
with bordeaux will control to a certain extent. Careful selection of 
seed and rotation of crops should always be practised. 

BEETS 

Beta Vulgaris 

These may be sown from May 15th to July 1st, in trenches three 
inches deep. They should be sowed thinly, and then covered with 
two inches of earth. 

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The rows should be 12 to 18 inches apart. 

Keep the ground moist by sprinkling, as beets need a great deal 
of moisture. 

Cultivate the soil, and keep plants free from all other growth. 

The early seeded beets are usually the sweetest and the best. 

It takes about three weeks for the plants to grow three inches 
high. 

Beets may be taken from the ground, five weeks after they are 
seeded. 

If the ground is allowed to get too dry, the beet becomes hard and 
stringy, and is only good for chicken and cow food. 

Beets should not be allowed in the ground more than six weeks, 
and should be canned for winter use, if you want them tender. 

Beets, if watered, can be left in the garden until the latter part 
of September for winter use, but they will grow large and will not 
be so tender and therefore will require more cooking than the beets 
which are only six weeks old. 

Occasionally beets are attacked by small black beetles. They 
may be controlled to some extent by spraying with arsenate of lead. 
Leaf spot or blight can be reduced by spraying with bordeaux. Rota- 
tion is probably the best means of escaping leaf blight. 

BRUSSEL SPROUTS 
Brasslca Oleracea, Gemmif era 

The plants are started by seeding in the hot bed about April 1st. 
When the plants are three or four inches high transplant in the open 
garden, 15 to 20 inches apart, and if several rows are planted, the 
rows should be 2 feet apart. If the weather is warm and ground 
rather dry, water well after transplanting. 

Instead of a large terminal head as in cabbage, the small heads 
develop in the angle between the leaf stem and the main stalk. This 
vegetable is considered a delicacy in the late fall and early winter 
and cooked about the same way as cauliflower. If the leaves are cut 
off, the little heads will grow more rapidly and larger. 

EARLY CABBAGE AND EARLY CAULIFLOWER 

Brassica Oleracea-Capitata — Brassico Oleracea-Botrjrtis 

Each of these are treated alike and one description will answer 
for both. 

These plants are started by seeding in the hot-bed about April 
1st, and seeded in rows. One row 6 ft. long will raise 200 plants. 

The plants will be large enough in a month to transplant. 

They can be planted in the garden about May 1st. There need 
be no special preparation of the soil. The plants should be placed 2 
ft. apart, and if several rows are planted, the rows should be 2 ft. 
apart. 

The ground should be cultivated and all weeds kept out. 

12 



Late Cabbage and Cauliflower may be seeded direct in the gar- 
den about June 1st. When the plants are from three to four inches 
high, they should be planted in rows — the plants being two feet apart. 

Late Cabbage and Cauliflower must be watered in dry weather. 
This is done by using a dipper of water and pouring the water close 
to the root. 

Cabbage and Cauliflower have many enemies — maggots which 
feed on the tender roots and are difficult to control. In the adult 
stage it looks like the ordinary house-fly. In the hot bed control can 
be had by covering with cheese cloth. The aphis is a greenish louse 
which attacks the underside of the leaves, causing them to curl and 
wilt. Control by using kerosene emulsion. Black rot appears as 
brownish streaks in the head and around the stem. The disease 
manifests itself in irregular shaped and undersized heads. Seed 
treatment by soaking a half hour in solution of formalin in the pro- 
portions of one pound to 30 gallons of water will serve to reduce 
the prevalence of the disease. Club root is probably the most difii- 
cult to control of all diseases to these plants. Lime applications to 
the soil several months before planting is a most effective remedy. 
The cabbage worm is probably the most destructive insect enemy. 
Dusting or spraying with arsenate of lead is the best method to use 
until the time when the heads are forming and nearly ready for use. 

Cabbage worms must be watched. Pick off the large worms. We 
have had success in sprinkling the cabbage plants with air-slacked 
lime early in the morning when the plants were covered with dew. 
If there is no dew, sprinkle with a watering can so the lime will 
stick. 

Salt water has also been used. About a cup of salt to two gal- 
lons of water and sprinkled on very lightly or put on with a spray. 

Salt water seems to kill the eggs, but it doesn't kill the large 
worms. 

Salt water should only be used on full grown plants. 

CANTALOUPE 

All Varieties 

Musk-Melons, Water-Melons and All Varieties 

Cucumis Melo — Citmllus Vulgaris 

These are planted from June 1st to the 20th, and are planted 
and cared for just as the cucumbers are. They are, also, subject to 
the same insects. 

If it is a late cold spring, melons and cantaloupe will not mature. 
They need 90 days of nice warm weather to raise perfect melons. 

In 1917, there were only 62 days between June frost and August 
frost. 

Melons ripen from about the 1st of September to the last. If 
any of the melons do not ripen, they can be picked while green, be- 
fore the frost comes, and then spiced or preserved. 

The enemies of this plant are the same as cucumber and the same 
treatment will apply. 

IS 



CARROTS 
Daucus Carota 

Carrots are seeded right into the garden, from the 1st of May to 
the 1st of July. 

When planting, make a small trench with a hand trowel, 2 inches 
deep, seed very thinly, and cover with 1 inch of ground. 

If more than one row is planted, the rows should be 18 inches 
apart. 

The one-inch depression holds the moisture, and the ground must 
be kept moist by sprinkling, until the plants are from 2 to 3 inches 
high. 

It takes about three weeks for the plants to grow two inches high 
— the later they are planted, the quicker they grow. 

Carrots can be seeded every week, between May 1st and July 1st, 
as this will give a continuous crop of young and tender carrots. 

The ground must be cultivated and kept clear of all other growths. 

If the carrots are to be held over for winter use, it is best to leave 
them in the ground until late October, when they can be taken up, 
packed in sand placed in the root cellar. They are not affected by 
frost, but they are by freezing weather. 

Carrots are sometimes attacked by a reddish brown beetle which 
feed on the roots. They are not easily controlled and rotation of 
crops should be practised. 

CELERIAC— CELERY ROOT 

Apium Graveolens — Rapaceum 

Celery root is raised in a hot-bed from seed. 

It can be seeded the 1st of April or later. The seed may sprout 
in two weeks, but it may take four weeks, as it depends upon the heat 
in the hot-bed. 

When the plants are two inches high, they are ready for thinning, 
or transplanting. 

As the frost affects them, it is best to transplant into boxes 4 
inches deep and 18 inches square, and leave plants in hot-bed until 
safe to plant. The plants can be put into the garden about June 1st. 

Transplanting in Garden 

Place the plants in rows 10 to 12 inches apart. If more than one 
row, see that the rows are from 18 to 20 inches apart, so that the plants 
can be well cultivated. 

To cultivate these plants means, to keep the ground surrounding 
the plants free from all other growth, by using either a hoe or small 
cultivator. Keep the top soil loose. 

The Celery root does not need much water, but does require loose 
ground. When the ground is kept loose and hoed up, it retains the 
moisture which in many cases is better than sprinkling. The ground 

14 



should always be moist, not muddy ; in extreme dry weather, sprink- 
ling is necessary, but should be in the very late afternoon. If done 
in the morning, the sun evaporates the moisture, which if done after 
the sun is low in the afternoon, the water has a chance to be absorbed 
by the earth. 

"When the tops become 6 to 8 inches high, the outer stalks should 
be pulled off, so that the strength of the plant does not all go to the 
tops. When the tops are pulled off, the root or bulb then receives the 
nourishment and grows large. 

If you find that the bulb is large, and this will be the case if the 
soil is rich, take a ease knife and cut around the ground about an 
inch from the bulb ; this will cut off all of the small lateral roots and 
leave the straight down-shooting roots to feed the bulb. This is 
known to be the best way to raise perfect bulbs. Otherwise, they have 
a number of small roots extending in all directions and the bulb is 
not fully developed. If the soil is poor the number of small roots will 
be less, and it is not advisable to cut them off. 

Celery root is used mainly for flavoring, and it matures suffi- 
ciently for use, about the middle of July. But the longer it remains 
in the soil, the larger it grows and can be left in the garden until late 
in October. 

Light frost will not affect it, as long as the bulb is covered with 
earth. But if the bulb itself is exposed to a heavy frost, it will soon 
rot. So, when taking up bulbs of celery root, they must be put in a 
place protected against freezing temperature. 

HOW MUCH TO PLANT 

A 5c package of seed will produce 500 plants — if seed is good. 
The amount depends upon the space in the garden. 

CELERY 

Apium Graveolens 
To grow celery just as a gurdener grows it in the home garden. 

Two transplantings of celery can be made in a season. The first 
planting should be ready for use about August 15th and the second 
about October 1st. For the early crop the plants must be propagated 
in a hot-bed. For the later crop the plants can readily be propagated 
in the open garden in this manner: Select a sheltered place in the 
garden which can be reached conveniently for watering. Have the 
surface of the ground well pulverized and raked level. Broadcast the 
seed thinly and cover by sifting on top of the seed a thin layer of fine 
soil or preferably fine sand. The sand will prevent the surface from 
drying out to a certain extent. Cover the seed plat with a medium 
weight muslin cloth and keep covered until the young plants make a 
good show^ng through the ground. The seed plat must be kept well 
watered. This can be done by sprinkling the water over the cloth. 
After the cloth is removed the plants should be kept well watered. 
Celery plants started in the open garden in this manner about May 
10th are ready for transplanting in trenches about sixty days later. 

15 



The later crop if forced by watering, cultivating and fertilizing, will 
be more tender, crisp and less stringy than the earlier crop grown 
during the heat of the summer. 

First: In the fall of the year, take garden soil and mix it with 
well rotted manure and sand. Take about ten. shovels of soil, one 
shovel full of sand and three of manure. Mix it well, and leave it in 
a pile to freeze over the winter, and in the spring it will be loose and 
friable, ready for the hot-bed. 

The amount of ground prepared will depend upon the amount of 
celery that it is intended to raise. 

The celery is raised from seed — for the early planting the plants 
are started in a hot-bed. 

The bottom of the hot-bed is covered with the soil prepared as 
above, to a depth of about six inches, in which the seed is planted in 
rows about eight inches apart. The number of rows would depend upon 
the size of the hot-bed, and the amount of celery one wished to raise. 

The standard size of a sash for hot-beds is six feet by three feet. 
A description of the hot-bed and how it is prepared will be given. 

A row of celery six feet long should be enough plants for any 
home garden. 

The ground in the hot-bed should always be kept moist, and 
especially on celery. On hot dry days the moisture evaporates, and 
on dark cloudy days the ground will remain moist, so that the water- 
ing is a matter of observation. The water should not be cold, or else 
the plants will be chilled. The water can be put in a bucket and left 
in the sun on bright days ; on cool days if possible have the water 
heated to a temperature of about 65 degrees F. 

Celery is a very slow growing plant in the hot-bed. In the lower 
lake regions of Illinois, April 1st is about as early as it is advisable 
to sow the seeds. If the hot-bed maintains a temperature around 65 
degrees, the seeds will peep above the ground in about three weeks. 
It may be three weeks more before the plants will be three inches 
high. 

When the plants are three inches high, they can be thinned and 
transplanted. 

By thinning, it is meant, that each plant should have an inch 
space. In sowing the seed, some plants will grow up in close bunches, 
and it cannot be told just how the seed will sprout until the plants are 
above the ground. 

When they get three inches high, the plants must have more room, 
so they will get a heavy root and get strong, so that they can grow 
out of doors. 

The transplanting at this thinning time, means that they are 
transplanted in the hot-bed, and plants should remain in the hot-bed 
until all danger of frost is over. 

A good method when the thinning out process time arrives, is to 
have a number of small boxes, 4 inches deep and 18 inches square, and 
transplant into the boxes — but leave the boxes in the hot-bed. 

The idea of the boxes is, that it is easier to carry them out into 
the garden when it is time to transplant the celery out doors. 

16 



Transplanting Celery in Garden 

To prepare for planting the celery, make trenches in the garden 
10 inches deep and 8 inches wide. Fill in 5 inches of the well mixed 
soil, that is the soil that was mixed in the fall of the year, then place 
the plants in the trench 8 inches apart. Water them when transplant- 
ing. To prevent excessive wilting of the plants, they should be shaded 
for a day or so. This can be done by placing papers or planks over 
the trench. 

When the plants show that they have become rooted and well 
started, in the trench, which is generally about a week, add 2 inches 
of soil around the roots. For this, just take soil that was taken out of 
the trenches. This will leave a little trench about 3 inches deep and 
should be allowed to remain. 

The celery should be watered frequently, and all weeds pulled out. 
The trench must be kept clear of all other growth. 

Celery is made white by bleaching. The Golden Self-Blanching 
celery is the variety better adapted for early use. The White Plume, 
is better adapted as a winter celery. Both are planted at the same 
time, and cultivated in the same manner. 

The time for bleaching is about September, but for early use, one 
may bleach a small amount at an earlier date. 

To Bleach Celery 

Before bleaching celery, fill trench with water. After the water 
is well soaked into the ground, fill up on both sides (commonly termed 
as "heeling up"), with the common garden earth, within 4 inches of 
the top of the celery. 

The tops must be left in the open air, because the celery keeps 
growing. 

It takes about 10 to 15 days before any of the celery is ready for 
table use. 

A touch of frost on the celery tops, improves the flavor of the 
celery, and the celery can remain banked up in the earth until late fall. 
But if the weather gets much below freezing, and remains cold the 
celery will freeze and be ruined, so it is a matter of judgment how 
long it is safe to keep it in the garden. 

Celery usually is immune from the attack of insects. Some sea- 
sons it is attacked by a black white-striped worm. If early in the 
period of growth, the worms can be gotten rid of by dusting on dry 
arsenate of lead when there is dew on the plants, or spraying with a 
weak arsenate solution. If the plants have nearly reached maturity 
the worms should be picked off by hand. If any of the forms of 
blight appear it is necessary to spray with Bordeaux mixture. As a 
preventive the plants should be sprayed in the seed bed, and appli- 
cations should be made periodically until the plants are ready for 
blanching. 

17 



CHARD 

Beta Vulgaris 

This is seeded thinly in trenches 3 inches deep from May 1st to 
June 1st. Cover the trenches with 2 inches of soil, and keep moist 
until the plant is two inches above the ground, which will be about 
two weeks. 

Thin out, so as to allow each plant from 6 to 8 inches of space. 

Cultivate and keep all other growths out. 

It will mature from 6 to 7 weeks. 

Chard should be cut three inches above the ground, which allows 
additional growth from the same root, and in this manner a con- 
tinuous crop is obtained. 

If it is desired to maintain the appearance of the garden and the 
symmetry of the row, pick out the tender leaves for use and allow the 
older ones to remain. 

CHICORY 

Cichorium Intybus 

This is grown the same as other root crops such as parsnips. 

Plant the seeds in the open garden after May 1st, when the soil 
is in good condition. The rows should be not less than 18 inches apart 
and the plants 6 inches apart in the row. 

The roots are sometimes prepared for table use in the same way 
as parsnips. If the roots are parched they make a war-time substitute 
for coffee. 

The roots, if forced in sand, also afford an excellent salad for 
use in the winter time. The roots when taken up in the fall can be 
dried and packed in sand until forcing time arrives. Place the roots 
tops up in a box of sand, and cover the tops with two or three inches 
of sand. Keep well watered. In two weeks or so the crowns will send 
out white tender shoots which make most delicious salad. The roots 
while being forced should be kept in a temperature of about 60 de- 
grees. A corner of the basement away from the furnace will answer 
very well. 

CHIVE 

Allium Schoenoprasum 

This is seeded thinly, in trenches 2 inches deep, from April 1st 
to July 1st. After the seeds have been put in, cover the trench with 
one inch of soil, and keep the ground moist until the plants are 2 
inches high. 

Cultivate and keep all other growth out. 

Chives can remain in the garden all winter and they will sprout 
from the old roots early in the spring, or they can be cut at any time 
during the summer — it is a perennial. 

Roots taken from the garden, planted in a box and then taken 
into the house, will grow all winter, if kept warm and moist. 

18 



CORN SALAD 

Valerianella Olitoria 

This vegetable thrives best in cool weather and is grown early 
in the spring or late in the fall. Six to eight weeks are required from 
seeding time until the leaves can be taken off and used as greens. 
Plant in rich soil with rows 15 inches apart with plants about 6 inches 
apart in the row. Cultivate frequently by shallow hoeing or raking 
and keep all weeds pulled out. This plant grows rapidly and does 
best when kept moist and well watered. 

CUCUMBERS 
Cucumis Sativis 

These are grown from seed and sown in the garden from May 
20th to August 1st. 

Dig a hole in the ground 8 inches deep and 8 inches square. Fill 
the hole with earth, as prepared for a hot-bed. Scatter from 12 to 
18 seeds on the top of the soil in the 8-inch square spot, and cover 
with 3 inches of the prepared earth. 

The seeds will sprout in about two weeks. Care should be taken 
so that the cucumber bug does not kill the vine. Just as soon as the 
sprout appears, scatter wood ashes over the plant if any bug appears. 
After this scatter air-slacked lime or slug-shot, a prepared insecticide. 

After the vine is from 6 to 8 inches long the danger of the bugs 
is about over, as the vine is hardened and strong by this time — then 
the vines may be thinned out so that there will be four vines to a hill. 

Hoe around the hill, to keep the ground loose, and if cuttings 
from grass lawns can be obtained, scatter it around the hill about 
three inches thick. As the vine grows larger a small amount of grass 
can be scattered between the vines, but not on top of the vines. After 
scattering the grass, lift up the vines and shake them, so that any 
grass which may have fallen on the vines can be shaken off. 

The grass makes a covering for the earth and keeps in the mois- 
ture. 

Cucumbers that are planted after July 1st, must be watered on 
the root — the vine must not be watered. 

Cucumbers may be pulled at any time, after they are large 
enough — they keep growing all summer. 

In watering the cucumbers, do not use water that has a tem- 
perature below 65 degrees, as cold water on the roots will kill them 
in a short time. Cold water on the vines will kill them very quickly, 
therefore, avoid watering the vines. 

The striped beetle can be controlled by sprinkling the plants 
with slacked lime, ashes, road dust or arsenate of lead. Mildew and 
blight can be controlled by spraying with bordeaux at intervals of 
two weeks. 

19 



DILL 

Anethum Graveolens 

Sow early in the spring in rows 12 to 15 inches apart and thin 
to spaces of 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. 

Keep well cultivated and free from weeds. 

When the seed is nearly ripe, it should be removed, thoroughly 
dried and stored for use. 

EGG PLANTS AND PEPPERS 

Solanum Melongena — Capsicum Annuum 

As these plants require the same method in planting and care, 
one description will answer for both. 

Sow the seeds about April 1st in boxes which are about 4 inches 
deep and about a foot square. 

Place the boxes in the center of the hot-bed where it is the 
warmest. 

In four weeks the plants will be from three to four inches high 
and will be ready for thinning out and transplanting. 

The plants should be 2 inches apart. The plants taken out in 
the thinning process should be placed in additional boxes or small 
flower pots. 

The plants must remain in the hot-bed until ,the 1st of June, or 
until all danger of frost is over. 

When placing the plants in the garden, no special work is needed. 
They are placed right in the regular garden soil, about 18 inches 
apart. If placed in rows, the rows must be two feet apart. 

When they are first placed in the garden, the roots should be 
watered every night until they are well caught — which usually takes 
about a week. After this, it is not necessary to water them unless 
it is exceptionally dry weather, and then they can be sprinkled at 
sunset. 

The ground around the roots must be raked and cultivated, and 
kept clear of all other growth. 

When the plants are from ten to twelve inches high, the roots 
should be banked up with about four inches of earth. At this time 
it is necessary to drive a stake along-side of the plant and tie the 
plant to it, so that the weight of the growing peppers or egg plants 
do not break down the stalk. 

These plants are not trimmed as the tomato vines. 
The egg plant is affected by a very small insect that is found 
on the underside of the leaf. The leaves of the plant should be care- 
fully held up so that the underside of the leaf is uppermost, and 
then sprinkle or dust the leaves with air slacked lime or wood ashes. 
This should be done early in the morning when the leaves are moist, 
and repeated two or three times a week. If this treatment is kept 
up for about two weeks, it will destroy the insect. 

Potato bugs will also eat egg plant leaves, but the only way 

20 



to treat the potato bugs is to pick them off by hand, as the egg 
plant cannot stand poison that would be strong enough to kill this 
bug. 

The insects and potato bugs seldom bother the peppers. 

Egg plants and peppers ripen about August. Some ripen be- 
fore others. The fruit of these plants can be allowed to remain on 
the vine until danger of frost, as the slightest frost injures both the 
egg plant and peppers, and either one, after being frosted, is worth- 
less. 

Peppers and egg plants can be picked early in July, but al- 
though they are suitable for eating or cooking, they have not reached 
their full growth, therefore, it is advisable to only pick what is 
necessary for use, and allow the others to remain on the vine and 
grow. 

FLAT LEAF AND CURLED ENDIVE 
Cichorium Endiva 

Sow the seed in the open garden in well prepared soil, about 
June 1st. Sow it very thinly — a five-cent package will sow two or 
three rows 6 ft. long and will give 500 plants. 

It should be cultivated and the soil kept moist. 

The plants should be 2 inches high before they are transplanted, 
and it will be from three to four weeks before the plants are strong 
enough to be transplanted. 

It is planted in rows, placing the plants 12 to 14 inches apart, 
and the rows 20 inches apart. It should be planted just on a level 
of the ground, that is, no trenches. 

When the leaves of the plants are from 6 to 8 inches long, then 
reach under them and raise them so that they stand up straight. Tie 
a string around them and slip a paper sack over them, or tie a piece 
of dark paper around them, in order to keep out the light. The 
plant will keep on growing, but the stalks will bleach to a cream 
white, and get tender. 

This process can be started early in August, as it takes 15 days 
to bleach it. But only a small number of plants should be tied up at 
a time, as it is not necessary to bleach more than can be used. 

The plants can be bleached any time that they are needed up 
until the latter part of October. 

Endive that is to be used in the latter part of October and No- 
vember, should be covered with garden soil (heeled up), the tops 
of Endive remaining exposed. Over the top of the Endive, lay a 
board to keep rain from running down into the stalks, and also to 
prevent the frost from freezing down into the heart of the plant. 
The board will permit the heat from the plant and the ground to 
escape — that is, a circulation of fresh air will continue to go around 
the plant, which will keep the plant from rotting. 

"When there is danger of temperatures low enough to freeze the 

21 



ground, the plants can be taken up with plenty of moist dirt around 
the roots and placed in the vegetable storage room for use until 
Christmas time or later. 

This is one of the garden plants which as yet has no insect 
enemies and is not attacked by blight. 

GARLIC 

Allium Sativum 

Garlic is a member of the onion family and has an odor peculiarly 
its own. It is grown largely for flavoring. 

The bulb is divided into a number of bulblets familiarly known 
as cloves. The cloves are planted in the same way as onion sets and 
can be put in the garden in the spring as soon as the ground can be 
worked. Keep well cultivated and free from weeds. 

As soon as the tops fall over the bulbs are matured. Plait the 
bulbs in strings and hang up in a dry place for future use. 

HORSE RADISH 
Cochleazia Armoracia 

Horse radish is grown from cuttings from the roots of plants that 
are taken up for use. The rootlets are planted in rows 2 feet apart 
and 8 to 10 inches apart in the row. Cultivate frequently and keep 
all weeds removed. This plant requires an abundance of moisture 
and a good supply of plant food. Roots planted in the spring should 
be large enough for use the following winter. 

KOHL RABI 

Brassica Oleracea, Caulorapa 

The seed can be planted in the open garden between May 1st and 
May 15th for the spring for the first crop and the last of July for the 
fall crop. 

Drill in rows 18 inches apart, and thin to space the plants 8 or 
10 inches apart. Keep the soil well cultivated, free from weeds, and 
supply moisture by sprinkling if the season is dry. 

The edible part of the plant is enlarged bulb from which the leaf 
stems radiate, and is ready for use as soon as the bulbs are large 
enough. 

Kohl Rabi is attacked by the same enemies as the cabbage and 
their control is secured by use of the same remedies. 

LEEK 

Allium Porrum 

Like onions leek requires a rich soil, and should be thoroughly 
cultivated. 

The plants can be grown from seed planted in the open garden 
early in May. Light surface cultivation while in this stage will insure 
strong sturdy plants in six weeks. 

22 



When the plants are about 5 inches high they can be transplanted. 
Set the plants in rows 12 inches apart and 4 or 5 inches apart in the 
row. It will be found advantageous to clip the blades before trans- 
planting. The plant should be planted in a trench 5 or 6 inches deep. 
As the plants develop, fill in the trench. Better specimen plants can 
be secured by banking up around the plants. This will serve to bleach 
the plants and make them more tender. 

Leek can be kept for winter use if taken up and stored in the 
same manner as celery. 

HEAD LETTUCE 

Lactuca Sativa 

Head lettuce is seeded in prepared soil in hot-bed, about April 
first. 

If the hot-bed is warm, it will sprout in about three days and 
in 15 more days will be 2 inches high. 

When the plants are 2 inches high, they should be thinned out 
and transplanted in hot-bed. 

Lettuce should not be planted in the garden until after May 1st. 
Lettuce, however, will stand a greater amount of cold than most 
plants, so the danger of frost is not so great, as it can stand a light 
frost after it is transplanted in the garden. 

To raise head lettuce, extra good rich soil is needed. Place the 
plants in rows 12 inches apart, and the rows 18 to 20 inches apart. 
Keep the ground free from all other growth by using a hoe or small 
cultivator. Keep the top soil scratched to a depth of 2 inches or 
deeper to keep the ground moist. 

Head lettuce grows in the spring; when the hot weather comes, 
it goes to seed; that is, it stops growing a head and gets a stalk on 
which grows the seed. You can save this seed for the next planting. 

A nickel package will produce 500 plants. The amount you sow 
will depend upon what you wish to raise. 

LEAF LETTUCE. 

About the first of April, take the spot in the garden in which you 
wish to raise the leaf lettuce. 

If the ground was spaded in the fall of the year, as all good 
gardens should be, then rake the spot with a small cultivator or gar- 
den rake. Then set up stakes. Put a string along it to mark a row. 
Then take a little garden trowel and make a furrow along the string 
2 inches deep and sow the seed thinly along the furrow and then 
cover it over with one inch of ground. This leaves a little furrow 
to catch and hold the moisture. 

When the lettuce grows to a height of four inches, then fill it up 
with about three inches of soil, that is, fill up the furrow, and raise 
the ground around plants about two inches. 

To grow good stalks of leaf lettuce, it is necessary to thin out 

23 



the plants so that there is a free space between plants, of at least 
two inches. 

The plants that are pulled up can be thrown away, or fed to the 
chickens. 

Lettuce must be well cultivated. The soil must be kept loose and 
no sprinkling or watering is required until after July 1st, and then 
sprinkle plants at sundown. 

If the garden had not been spaded in the fall, it would be difficult 
to raise leaf lettuce, because the ground would be hard. 

Neither insect enemies nor blight prove very serious. They ap- 
pear at times, but as a rule do not do much damage. The best plan 
is to plant the lettuce in a new place in the garden each year. 

The energetic and resourceful gardener should have lettuce for 
his table from early May until killing frosts in November. After the 
first crop, new beds can be started in some garden spot which is 
shaded a part of the day. Successful crops of leaf lettuce have been 
grown from sowings made the first week of July and located on the 
north side of rows of sweet corn. The corn stalks furnish enough 
shade and with plenty of water late in the day most excellent lettuce 
was raised. 

MINT 
Mentha 

Mint is an aromatic herb and should have its small place in every 
garden. 

Mint is grown from roots of matured plants. Plant early in the 
spring. If a small quantity is required it need not be set in rows. 
Once started the plants will care for themselves and will spread rap- 
idly to the adjoining ground. 

OKRA 

Hibiscus Esculentus 

This may be seeded in the hot-bed about April 1st, or planted 
in rows in the garden about May 10th. 

A row two feet long will furnish enough plants for a small 
garden — a ten-cent package of seed will be sufficient. 

In about four weeks, plants will be four inches high, and they 
should be thinned out and transplanted, that is, those plants that are 
pulled up may be planted in boxes. 

The plants, both in the boxes and those left in the row, must 
be two inches apart. 

The plants must be kept in the hot-bed until after June 1st. 

No preparation need be made in the garden — the plants simply 
planted eighteen inches apart and if in rows, the rows two feet apart. 

Plants must be kept free from other growths and the ground 
kept raked or cultivated. 

The roots of the plants should be watered in dry weather. 

24 



The plant grows a little shell, like a very large pea, and it is 
fully matured in September, but can be used early in August. 

These plants usually dry up before the frosts come in the fall. 

The pods are the edible portion of the plant and are used very 
extensively in the south where it is used either as a vegetable or 
salad or in making "gumbo" soups. When the pods are more than 
one-third or one-half of full size they are at their best. No use can 
be made of the fully developed or ripened pods. The plants will 
produce longer in the season if all the pods are removed when they 
have reached usable size. 

ONIONS 

Allium Cepa 

These are grown from seed and from onion sets. 

An onion set is a small onion grown from the seed, and is used 
the second year, just like a bulb, to grow large onions. 

Onions are seeded thinly in trenches 3 inches deep, from May 1st 
to July 1st, and the seeds covered with 2 inches of soil. 

Sprinkle frequently until the seed has sprouted, as the ground 
must be kept moist. 

Cultivate and keep all other growth out. 

Onions will sprout from the seed in about three weeks. 

Green onions can be pulled from the ground five weeks after they 
are seeded, but if they are allowed to remain in the ground they will 
grow larger. 

It takes from 8 to 9 weeks for an onion to mature, after which 
time the tops begin to dry up and fall off. The onions should be taken 
up and dried in the sun, so that they can be kept all winter. 

"When the onions are sorted, there will be quite a number of this 
crop which are very small. Enough of these can be saved and used 
for onion sets to grow large onions. 

When planting onion sets, make a trench 3 inches deep, place the 
onion sets in the trench 4 inches apart and cover them with earth 
to the level of the ground. 

Sprinkle frequently, until the onion tops are from 2 to 3 inches 
above the ground, which takes from 2 to 3 weeks' time. 

Cultivate and keep out all other growth. 

The tops from an onion set, if let alone, will go to seed. If this 
is not desired, and one would like the large onions, bend the top over 
and step on it so as to put a decided kink above the onion, as this 
permits the strength to stay in the onion, and the stalk will grad- 
ually dry up. The tops are not bent over, however, until there are 
good indications of them going to seed. If the top is broken off, it 
is like a wound, and the onion bleeds. 

When the tops are thoroughly dried, the onions should be taken 
up, dried in the sun, and put away for the winter. 

For earliest spring onions, plant Multiplier or Top onions late in 
the fall in the same way as planting sets early in the spring. 

25 



The large bulbs of the Multiplier onions contain a number of 
hearts or buds and if planted will produce a number of small onions. 
The small onions have but one heart and will produce large onions. A 
few large bulbs should be planted each year to produce sets for fall 
planting. 

The Top onion produces a number of bulblets on top of the stem. 
These small bulbs can be planted in the autumn and will produce 
onions the following spring. 

Maggots, thrips and smut are the worst enemies to the onion plant. 
Maggots can be controlled by treating with a carbolic acid emulsion 
made as follows: Dissolve a half pound of soap in a half gallon of 
hot water ; add a half pint of crude carbolic acid. Stir until it is thor- 
oughly mixed. Apply by diluting in water one part of the mixture 
to fifteen of water and apply to the plant by spraying. Thrips can be 
controlled by spraying with kerosene emulsion. Smut does not yield 
to either seed or plant treatment. Rotation of crops is the only remedy. 

PEAS 

Pisum Sativum 

There are many varieties of peas. 

The Dwarf Peas are sowed in rows and do not need to be sup- 
ported on sticks or brush. 

The Telephone Peas grow high, and the vines must be supported 
on sticks or brush. 

Peas are sowed right into the garden about April 15th. Peas 
can be sowed from that date on for a month, and they should be 
sowed every week so that you will have a harvest which will last over 
a month. 

Old seed peas, for late sowing, should be soaked in water over 
night, before planting, especially if the ground is dry. The ground 
about April 1st is moist, and the soaking of peas for the early seeding 
is not necessary. The condition of the weather, and the ground, will 
have to be the guide. 

In planting peas, make a furrow with a hoe or garden trowel 
about four inches deep. Sow the peas thinly, about from two to three 
inches apart, and cover with three inches of soil. This permits a one- 
inch depression which catches the moisture. 

Peas are not watered, but the ground must be raked or culti- 
vated very often, as it must be kept clear of all other growth. 

If the peas are planted in rows, the rows should be from 2 to 3 
feet apart. 

"When peas are "blooming" the plants should have the roots 
banked up with earth about four inches high. 

A pea is sweet, but when the pea-pod is taken off the vine, the 
pod seems to gradually absorb the sweetness from the pea, so that 
to obtain the best from the pea, the quicker they are shelled, the 
better they taste. 

When planting Telephone Peas, when the vines are about 12 

26 



inches high, take brush, that is, branches of any kind of bushes, and 
stick them along the row of peas, and the vines will climb up on them. 
The pea aphis in some seasons is a serious enemy. They attack 
the tender growing branches and stop growth. Kerosene emulsion 
spray will control the pest and save the crop if applied as soon as they 
first appear. 

WHITE OR IRISH POTATOES 

Solanum Tuberosum 

Potatoes are planted about May 1st to June 1st, for early pota- 
toes. Late potatoes are a gamble — they are planted from June 1st 
to July 1st. Late potatoes suffer in growth, because of the dry 
weather, and when the weather is dry the insects attack the vines. 

The potato vine grows fast in hot, dry weather, and about July 
15th the vine of the late potato is young and tender. The potato 
itself does not grow in dry weather, as the potato needs moisture to 
grow — but it ripens in dry weather. 

One wants potatoes, not vines, so the ground must be kept wat- 
ered to give the late potato a chance to develop. 

Potatoes are used for seed. On all potatoes will be noticed spots, 
which are known as eyes. From these eyes the potato sprouts. If the 
seed potatoes are small, plant one potato, and if they are of medium 
size, cut them through the center — that is, cut them through their 
narrowest diameter. One end will have more eyes in it than the 
other, and is called the top of the potato. 

Cut the top in two — that is, halve it, as if you were quartering 
the potato, but do not cut the bottom in half, unless the potato is 
extra large, and then the bottom may be cut in two. 

These instructions can be best followed by noting the number of 
eyes in the potato, and then cutting the potato so that each portion 
of it has at least one or more eyes. A potato or portion of a potato 
will produce no sprout unless there is an eye. 

Potatoes are usually planted one foot apart, and the rows three 
feet apart. Mark the places where the seed is to be planted and dig 
holes 6 inches deep. Drop into the holes, one seed potato, or a por- 
tion of one, and cover the holes to the level of the ground. 

It is not necessary to water early potatoes. The potatoes that 
are planted in the early part of May will take from 2 to 3 weeks 
before they show above the ground. The later the potato is planted, 
the shorter the time before it shows above the ground. 

When the vines are about three inches high, the ground should 
be cultivated and kept loose. 

The striped, hard shell, potato bug appears as soon as the potato 
sprouts above the ground, and should be picked off by hand, as the 
young potato vine is too tender to stand any poison, sufficiently 
strong to kill the bug. One way of freeing the potato vine from 
this bug is to take a pan which has about one-half an inch of kero- 
sene in it, taking a shingle, and then hold the pan alongside of the 
plant; bend the vine over the pan with the shingle, carefully, and 

27 



gently keep tapping and shaking the plant with the shingle until 
all the bugs and insects fall into the pan. The necessity of getting 
rid of these bugs quickly is, because they lay eggs on the under side 
of the leaves and the second generation is worse than the first. 

If the area planted in potatoes is large, hand picking of the 
striped beetle may be rather burdensome. A spray made of arsenate 
of lead applied every ten days or two weeks will keep the plants 
free from the beetle in all stages of development. The spray will 
reach the smallest of the beetles which feed on the tenderest parts 
of the plants on the tops. 

When the plant is from 10 to 12 inches high, they will show 
signs of a bud. When they are of this size, they are strong enough 
so that Paris Green, Pyrox, and other poisons may be used for killing 
the insects. 

In using these preparations, be careful to read the instructions 
on the cans or packages, and follow them. 

When the plants show signs of a bud, they should be banked 
with from 4 to 6 inches of earth. 

Potatoes planted about May 1st, are about ready for use July 
5th, if it has been a nice warm spring, but at that time one should 
not dig up any more than they can use, as the potato has not reached 
its full growth, and will continue to grow until the vines are dried 
up and dead. 

If potatoes are to be kept for winter use, they should be left 
in the ground until late September. If dug up, they should be left 
out of doors, covered with hay or straw and over this a layer of 
earth to keep the hay or straw in place. In this way they can be 
left out until late in October. 

The object in handling potatoes this way is to give them a 
chance to dry out. A potato must not be dried in the sun, but when 
dried either by allowing them to remain in the garden, or by being 
covered with straw and earth, they keep better over the winter. 

Care should be taken when the potatoes are boxed or barreled 
for the basement, that each potato must be dry. 

Early blight, late blight and tip burn are more destructive 
enemies to the potato than the Colorado beetle or any other insect 
which feed on the plant. The blight appears as black spots on the 
leaves. These grow larger rapidly and in a very short time the entire 
leaf is covered — and the leaves and the whole plant turn yellow and 
die. The first preventive is crop rotation. The seed potatoes should 
be soaked two hours in a solution of formaldehyde in the proportion 
of one pound to 30 gallons of water. When the plants are six inches 
high they should be sprayed with bordeaux every two weeks, until 
the period of tuber development is passed. The spray for the Colo- 
rado beetle and the blight can be mixed and applied at the same time. 

28 



PUMPKIN 
Cucurbita Pepo 

The sweet pumpkin is grown to some extent for use in making 
pies for the winter season. One or two hills or 6 or 8 plants is enough 
to supply the needs of one family. 

It is propagated and cultivated in the same way as the squash. 

The striped beetle is the only serious enemy but can be controlled 
in the same way as that for the squash. 

RADISHES 

Raphanus Sativus 

These are sown from the 1st of May to the 1st of July, directly 
into the garden. 

The early radishes are the best. 

In planting radishes, make a small trench 2 inches deep with a 
garden trowel, and sow the seed thinly and cover with one inch of 
earth. 

Radishes need a lot of moisture — sprinkle every day if there is 
no rain. 

It takes them from 15 to 18 days to grow and they need moisture 
until they are taken from the ground. 

If sown in rows, the rows should be 10 inches apart. 

If seeded after July 1st, the plant grows to tops, but after Sept. 
1st, radishes can be sowed and one or two crops obtained before the 
frost comes. 

RHUBARB 

Rheum Rhaponticum 

■•^ 
Rhubarb is the first essential of the garden. It is one of the first 
things the garden produces in the spring and contains the elements 
the human system needs after a winter's inactivity. 

For successful growth rhubarb requires a deep soil, well fer- 
tilized. While it can in time be grown from seed, it is more satisfac- 
tory to buy clumps of roots and thus gain two years' time. 

Dig the soil to a depth of 18 inches and fill the bottom with a 
mixture of soil and well rotted manure. Place the crown of the plant 
about level with the general level of the ground and fill around the 
roots with a mixture of earth and manure. 

It is advisable not to pull the stems too closely the first season. 

Pull out all the seed shoots which may appear. 

Fertilizer should be dug in around the plants every fall. 

In three or four years the plants should be taken up, divided and 
reset in the same manner as for the first planting, 

29 



RUTABAGA 

Brassica Campestris 

If an early crop is desired the plants can be started in a hot-bed. 

The usual plan is to sow the seed in the open garden, as early 
in the spring as soil conditions and weather will permit in the rows 
when they are to mature. They require a deep rich soil and are well 
supplied with moisture. The rows may be 18 inches apart and the 
plants spaced by thinning to 8 or 10 inches. The roots can be stored 
in the root cellar late in the fall for winter use. 

SAGE AND PARSLEY 

Salvia Officinalis — Carum Petroselinum 

This is seeded thinly in trenches 3 inches deep, from May 1st 
to July 1st. 

After the seed has been sown, cover them with 2 inches of soil. 

The soil must be kept moist until the plants appear above the 
ground. The soil must be also cultivated and all other growth kept out. 

Sage and Parsley will grow until the late fall — until freezing 
weather, which kills it. 

SALSIFY AND PARSNIPS 

Tragopogon Porrifolius — Pastinaca Sativa 

Both of these are treated alike. 

These may be sown into the garden from June 1st until July 1st, 
in trenches three inches deep, and the seed sown very thinly. Cover 
with two inches of soil. 

If more than one row is planted, the rows should be 18 inches 
apart. 

The plants come up in three weeks, and they shouTd be sprinkled 
frequently until the plants are two inches high. 

The ground must be well cultivated and kept free from all growth. 

Salsify and Parsnips are best after a slight frost. If they are to 
be held over for winter use, they should be kept in the ground until 
late October. They may be stored in pits, or packed in sand in the 
root cellar, but can not be kept a long time in the open without drying 
and shriveling. 

These root vegetables are used during the summer, before they 
are mature, for flavoring soup, stews, etc. They can be taken from 
the ground as they are needed, but they do not mature until the light 
frost. 

They can be kept in the ground all winter if well protected with 
a covering of straw or leaves, and dug up as required or when the 
weather will permit. They should not be used the following spring 
after vigorous growth is started. 

30 



SAVORY 
Satureia Montana 

Sow the seed in the open garden in rows 12 inches apart and thin 
to spaces of 6 to 8 inches in the row. Cultivate frequently and re- 
move the weeds. 

When the leaves are fully developed remove them, dry them and 
store them for seasoning. 

This variety is an annual and new plantings must be made each 
year. 

SPINACH 

Spinacea Oleracea 

This may be seeded about April 15th to June 15th, in trenches 3 
inches deep. Seed thinly, and cover with 2 inches of soil. 

If more than one row is desired, place the rows 12 inches apart. 

The ground should be kept moist — sprinkle freely. 

Cultivate the soil, so plants are kept free from all other growth. 

It takes about two weeks for these plants to come up, but spinach 
is cut from 5 to 6 weeks after seeding. 

Spinach will only grow in the early summer — after the season 
becomes hot, it goes to seed. 

A fall crop may be grown if the season is not too short. The seed 
for this crop should be planted about the middle of August. The 
ground must be kept moist and cultivated frequently. 

SQUASH 

Cucurbita Maxima 

Squash can be planted in the garden from May 10th to June 10th. 

It is seeded in hills, six feet apart, and 8 to 10 seeds in a hill. 

If the seed sprouts well, and the danger of bugs is past, thin out 
to three vines in a hill. That is, one will notice bugs on the plants 
but when they get to be six inches high the bugs do not affect them, 
then thinning out process is started. 

Hoe the plants, to keep all other growth out. 

The Squash develops about August 1st and continues to until 
late fall. It is a continuous maturing crop. 

If the weather is real dry, the roots may be watered, but not the 
vines. 

The striped beetle which attacks the plants as soon as they 
come through can be controlled by sprinkling slacked lime, 
ashes, road dust or arsenate of lead on the foliage when there 
is dew on it. A more dangerous enemy is the vine borer. This insect 
tunnels into the vines just above the ground and consumes the greater 
part of stem of the vine. The plant can be saved by covering the sec- 
ond and third joint with dirt. Enough rootlets will develop to support 
the plant. 

31 



SWEET-CORN 

Zea Mays 

Corn is planted in hills. Make small holes in the garden, 4 inches 
deep and 2^/2 feet apart. The rows should be placed 3 feet apart. 

Three or four kernels are put into each hole, and then covered with 
earth to the level of the ground. 

Excellent results can be obtained also by planting the corn about 
10 inches apart, one grain in a place, in rows spaced 3 feet. This 
gives plenty of room for the development of the plant and growth of 
ears, and affords more space for the distribution of the root system. 

Corn may be planted from May 1st to July 1st. In order to have 
a gradual maturing crop, corn is planted about every eight or ten days. 

Corn takes from 80 to 90 days to ripen. Hot weather makes it 
grow and ripen fast, but cool weather retards its growth. 

Sometimes corn planted May 1st does not ripen any sooner than 
that which is planted May 15th. Whenever this is the case, it will 
be found that the weather, early in May, has been unusually cool. 

Corn is not watered except when planted in the latter part of 
June, as the ground by that time may have become very dry. In 
such a case, it is only necessary to water the ground. 

Corn requires moisture in the ground, and the natural moisture 
is best retained by cultivating the ground around the corn. That 
is, hoeing and raking the ground, which keeps the top soil broken 
up and loose, which prevents evaporation and which absorbs mois- 
ture. This, also, keeps down the weeds and other growth. 

The cultivating must be kept up until after the corn is over 18 
inches high. 

When the corn is 18 inches high, it should be banked up with 
garden soil about 6 inches. 

The suckers or shoots which spring from the plant near the 
ground should be broken out to permit all the substance to go to 
the development of the main plant. 

If the corn is not picked when young and tender, it can be left 
on the stalk for seed or chicken feed. The stalks can be fed to horses 
and cows, and are also used for covering such plants that are to be 
protected from frosts. 

There are many varieties of sweet corn: Early Champion and 
Golden Bantam are known as good varieties for early corn, and the 
Bantam Evergreen, Stowell's Evergreen and Country Gentleman for 
late corn — for further information consult seed catalog. 

Different corns when planted at or near the same time, and 
planted close together, will produce a hybrid corn — that is, the pollen 
from one kind of corn mixes with that of another kind. 

If corn is frost-bitten early in the spring, it is best to replant, 
as frost-bitten corn will never produce a perfect crop, A light frost 
in the fall will not affect the ear of corn when in its husk as the husk 
protects it, but a heavy frost will. If some corn is not ripe by fall, 

32 



and it is attacked by a heavy frost, the best thing to do is to leave 
it on the stalk and eventually use it for chicken feed. 

If the fall season is favorable, sweet corn will mature and can 
be planted between the rows of earliest potatoes. If the potato rows 
are 3 feet apart the cultivation of the corn will not interfere with 
the potatoes. 

SWEET POTATO 

Ipoiuoea Batatas 

The sweet potato thrives best in the south where temperature and 
seasonal conditions are more favorable. Certain varieties having a 
period of 4 or 41/0 months for maturity will do well in this section. 

Plants are started from the tubers. Propagation of plants re- 
quires temperature and moisture conditions not obtainable in the or- 
dinary hot-bed. It is best to buy plants from seed men who usually 
can furnish them when the planting time arrives. 

The plants are very sensitive to low temperature and should not 
be set out until there is no danger of frost. 

Plant in rows S^/o or 4 feet apart with the plants 15 inches apart 
in the row. It is preferable in this section to plant them on a ridge 
about 6 inches high. The surface of the ridge should be kept well 
stirred by shallow cultivation. 

STRAWBERRIES 

Fragaria 

Strawberry plants can be obtained from any nursery, and planted 
in the garden any time during the month of April. 

If planted in May, June or July, the ground is dry and they 
would require constant sprinkling. 

In August, the nights are cooler, and with a little sprinkling, 
planting at this time will be a success. 

Plants that are put in early in the spring will not bear much 
fruit the first year. The plant that is planted in August, will show 
as good a crop the following summer, as that which is planted in the 
spring — the strawberry plant is a perennial. 

The strawberry grows best in sandy soil. If the garden soil is 
not sandy, scatter sand right over the plants and ground, after they 
have been set or planted in the garden. 

To plant strawberries, have them placed one foot apart, and the 
rows two feet apart. Dig a little hole with a garden trowel, stick 
the root in, and squeeze the earth around it. 

Water the root, until the plant is well started. Cultivate the 
soil and keep free from all other growth. 

It was directed, if soil was not sandy, to scatter sand over the 
garden; in raking and cultivating the ground, the sand is worked 
into the soil. 

In the fall of the year, cover the plants, not over 4 inches deep, 

»3 



with dry manure to keep them from freezing over the winter. At 
the same time they obtain nourishment from the manure. 

In the spring of the year, take off the manure, cultivate and rake 
the ground so that it becomes loose. Then scatter lawn grass all 
over the strawberry bed about two inches deep over the plants — the 
plants will grow up through the grass. 

The lawn grass, will hold the moisture, and the berries will 
eventually rest on the grass and keep clean of the sand and earth. 

After the berries are picked, it is still necessary to cultivate the 
bed until fall, to keep out all other growths, and runners, which takes 
the strength of the producing plant. 

When the plants are three years old, it is necessary to start a 
new bed, as the old plant will die out about the fourth year, and those 
that do not die, will bear only small and imperfect fruit. 

There is a strawberry called ''The Ever-Bearing." This plant 
is treated as above and the only difference is that it has a continuous 
crop from June until the late fall. 

Strawberries require moisture, and should be sprinkled in the 
dry weather. 

THYME 
Thymus Vulgaris 

The plants may be started from seed or from the runners of other 
plants. 

If grown from the seed, sow thinly in rows 8 to 10 inches apart 
and thin to 6 inches in the row. Cultivate early in the growth of the 
plant. Late in the season they will spread and almost if not entirely 
cover the ground. 

The leaves are picked off, dried and stored for use in seasoning. 

TOMATOES 

Lycopersicum Asculentum 

These plants are started by seeding in the hot-bed April 1st, 
either in rows or small boxes. 

In three weeks the plants will be about four inches high. 

When they are four inches high, they should be thinned out. 
They can be put in pots. Plants left in the rows or boxes must 
have at least three inches of space, and those that are potted should 
each have a separate pot. 

Tomato plants are tender and should be kept in the hot-bed until 
after June 1st, as the slightest frost will nip them. Plants touched 
by the frost will never produce a perfect crop. 

When the plants are placed in the garden, no preparation need 
be made. The plants must be placed three feet apart, and if placed 
in rows, the rows should be four feet apart. 

When the plants become one foot high, they should be trimmed 
— all the bottom leaves which touch the ground should be cut off. 

34 



This gives the plant strength, the air can circulate and the insects 
do not gather on the plant. 

Larger and better fruit will be obtained if about one-third of 
the new shoots are trimmed out as they appear in the angles of 
the leaves. It will be observed that a fruit cluster will appear at 
about every third leaf angle, and in pruning care should be taken 
and not remove them. 

In case of dry weather, water the root by dipping water from 
a pail — you do not wet the leaves. 

If the tomato worm appears, the plant must be cleared by pick- 
ing the worms off by hand. 

After the tomatoes show up on the plants, earth should be 
banked up around the roots about 6 to 8 inches, and it is no longer 
necessary to water the plants. 

If the plants are tied up on stakes or on a trellis, the tomatoes 
keep cleaner and will ripen more uniformly, faster and are less liable 
to rot on the vine. When the vines lie on the ground and the 
weather is rainy, the tomatoes are more easily affected. 

A method used for building a tomato trellis is to drive a row 
of stakes made of 2x2-inch pieces about nine inches on each side 
of the row and should be nearly 6 feet high when driven. Nail a 
lx2-inch strip on the sides at the top of the rows of stakes and 
across each pair to make the trellis stiff and rigid. The interme- 
diate ties for the plants can be made of 16 gauge galvanized wire 
preferably spaced eight or ten inches on the outside of the stakes. 
As the plants grow and are pruned they should be secured to the 
wires by ties of soft cord or strings. It is important that the 
branches of the plants be well distributed on the sides of the trellis 
to get a good distribution of light and air. 

Tomatoes do not all ripen at the same time. There are red, 
yellow and pink tomatoes, and their color indicates when they are 
ripe and should be picked as soon as they ripen. 

If the season is advanced and green tomatoes still appear on 
the vine, they can be picked and put in a dry place where there 
is no danger of freezing and many of them will slowly ripen, but a 
frost-bitten tomato will rot. 

The tomato is subject to several forms of blight which can be 
controlled by spraying with bordeaux mixture. Rotation of crops 
should always be followed, 

TURNIP 
Brassica Rapa 

Two crops of turnips can be grown in one summer season. For 
the first crop, the seed should be sown as early as the ground can be 
prepared and the second or fall crop between the middle of July and 
first of August. 

The sweetness of the turnip depends largely on a rapid growth. 
Sow the seed thinly in rows 12 to 15 inches apart. Thin to 5 or 6 

35 



inches between plants. Cultivate frequently and keep the soil well 
supplied with moisture. 

Turnips do not freeze very easily. The fall crop can be left in 
the ground until temperatures are low enough to freeze a crust on 
the ground. 

Turnips are stored for winter use by placing in the root cellar and 
packed in sand. 

UTILIZING ALL GARDEN SPACE 

Special Note for Intensive Gardening 

Spinach and radishes mature early, and other crops can be grown 
on the same ground — giving two crops in one season. 

It is not advisable to sow the second crop of spinach or radishes 
on the same ground as the first crop was sown. 

However, beans, peas, carrots, beets, parsnips, or salsify, can be 
planted on the ground made vacant by the harvesting of the first 
crop of radishes or spinach. 

Radishes and spinach for late crops may be sown on any other 
portion of the garden. 

When head lettuce matures it should be taken up or it will go to 
seed — this ground can be used for late cabbage, cauliflower, or beans. 

If space occupied by these early crops is large enough, late corn 
can be planted instead of the other crops mentioned. However, corn 
that is planted after June 25th may not mature if there are early 
frosts. 

Before sowing the second crop, scatter a little bone meal thinly 
over the top of the ground, and work the ground over with a rake, 
thus bringing -the bone meal under the surface and then sow your 
seeds. 

In two weeks' time the bone meal is thoroughly absorbed in the 
soil, and gives nourishment to the plants. 

Bone meal can be purchased from seed stores or the stock yards. 



36 






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H 



CALENDAR FOR THE TREATMENT OF PLANT DISEASES AND 

INSECT PESTS 

The propagation of plants, their proper arrangement in the gar- 
den, their training and cultivation are requisite to a successful garden 
but the identification of plant diseases and insect enemies and applica- 
tion of repellents against their attacks must be given careful study and 
prompt action if maximum results are desired. It would seem ad- 
visable to give the formulae for the preparation of the most commonly 
used fungicides and insecticides, and also append a table in concise form 
giving the time to spray, and the remedies to use. The following in- 
formation is quoted from the information compiled by the Ohio Agri- 
cultural Experiment Station: 

REMEDIES 
Fungicides 

1 BORDEAUX MIXTURE I* 

Copper sulphate (blue vitriol), 4 pounds 
Quicklime (not air-slaked), 4 pounds 

(Of dry air-sliiked lime or hydrated lime one-fourth more) 

Water to make 50 gallons 

Dissolve the copper sulphate in about 2 gallons of hot water con- 
tained in a wooden vessel, by stirring, or even better suspending the 
sulphate contained in a cheese cloth sack in a large bucketful of cold 
water. With the cold water and cheese cloth bag a longer time is re- 
quired. Pour the sulphate solution into the barrel or tank used for 
spraying, and fill one-third to one-half full of water. Slake the lime 
by addition of a small quantity of water, and when slaked cover freely 
with water and stir. Pour the milk of lime thus made into the copper 
sulphate, straining it through a brass wire strainer of about 30 meshes 
to the inch. Pour more water over the remaining lime, stir and pour 
into the other ; repeat this operation until all the lime but stone lumps 
or sand is taken up in the milk of lime. Now add water to make 50 
gallons in the tank. After thorough agitation the mixture is ready 
to apply. The mixture should be made fresh before using, and any 
left over for a time should be thrown out or fresh lime added. In most 
operations on a large scale, and for uniform results from arsenicals 
added to Bordeaux mixture, it is usually better to combine the diluted 
copper sulphate solution and the milk of lime diluted to volume in a 
mixing tank before putting into the spray tank. 

When in a small way separate barrels are used, and both the lime 
and blue vitriol are made up to equal measured volume, insecticides 
may be added in the lime barrel and the equal volumes run together 
directly into the sprayer. 

*The strength of Bordeaux mixture best adapted to use upon apple trees varies with 
the spray appliances employed ; with hand pumps and low pressure of the spray a 4-4-50 
formula may be used with safety : while with high pressure and heavy applications of 
spTay a 3-3-50 strength is safer even in earlier sprayings in foliage — for summer ones a 
greater strength than 2-2-50 is seldom desirable. 

40 



2 BORDEAUX MIXTURE U 

Copper sulphate, 2 pounds 
Quicklime, 2 pounds 

(Of dry air-slaked lime or liydrated lime one-fourth more) 

Water to make 50 gallons 
For use on such trees as have foliage injured by Bordeaux I 

Stock Solution and Lime Putty 

A solution of copper sulphate containing 1 pound of sulphate to 
the gallon of water may be made and permitted to stand indefinitely 
in a covered barrel if no lime is added. Such a solution is known as a 
stock solution and 2 or 3 or 4 gallons of this stock solution, according 
to the strength desired, is taken for each 50 gallons of the mixture to 
be made. For extensive spraying, a long trough or box of uniform 
width may be used, in which to slake and keep the lime. The quick- 
lime is weighed out according to the amount needed, immediately 
placed in the trough and slaked with a small quantity of water. The 
whole is evenly spread and covered as a putty with water to exclude 
the air. This putty may be removed in calculated portions, placed in 
a tub and treated like the freshly slaked lime. By means of stock solu- 
tion of copper sulphate and the lime in putty state, much valuable time 
is saved in filling the barrels or tanks used in spraying. (See mixing- 
tank suggestions above.) 



3 AMMONIACAL SOLUTION OF COPPER CARBONATE 

Copper carbonate, 6 ounces 

Ammonia, about 3 pints (avoid excess) 

Water, 50 gallons 

Dissolve the copper carbonate in the ammonia and add the water. 

Caution — Use no more ammonia than is required to dissolve the 
copper carbonate. Ammonia is variable in strength, and the amount 
required must be tested in practice. 

To Make Copper Carbonate — Dissolve 10 pounds of copper sul- 
phate (blue vitriol) in 10 gallons of water, also 12 pounds of carbonate 
of soda in same quantity of water. When cool, mix the two solutions 
slowly, stirring well. Allow the mixture to stand 12 hours and settle, 
after which pour off the liquid. Add the same quantity of water as 
before, stir and allow to stand the same length of time. Repeat the 
operation, after which drain and dry the blue powder, which is copper 
carbonate. 



41 



4 SODA BORDEAUX MIXTURE 

Copper sulphate, 4 pounds 

Commercial caustic soda, soda lye (sodium hy- 
droxide) slightly in excess so that mixture 
is alkaline — according to strength, 1 lb. 5 
oz. to 1 lb. 8 oz. by testing 
Water to make 50 gallons 

For use instead of ammoniacal copper carbonate 
Warning' — In each case of change of grade or brand of commer- 
cial caustic soda, it will be necessary to test the strength. Keep the 
mixture well agitated. In order to test the strength of caustic soda 
provide materials and appliances and test carefully the reaction with 
both red and blue litmus. 

To Keep Caustic Soda — After opening a container and testing, 
weigh out the entire contents into portions such as are needed to make 
a single spray tank of mixture ; put in Mason jars under shelter ; cover 
with a pint or so of water. This portion is ready to be used as needed. 
Open packages of caustic soda will absorb water and increase in weight 
on standing ; unopened packages will usually keep for a year or more. 

5 COPPER SULPHATE SOLUTION 

Copper sulphate, 4 pounds 

Water to make 50 gallons 
Dissolve the sulphate as directed in Bordeaux I. 
Caution — This solution will injure foliage. It can be used only 
before the buds open. 

6 BORDEAUX MIXTURE AND IRON STICKER 

Copper sulphate (blue- vitriol), 2 pounds 
Iron sulphate (copperas), 2 to 3 pounds 
Quicklime, 4 to 5 pounds 

(Of dry air-slaked lime or hydra ted lime one-fourth more) 

Water to make 50 gallons 

Recommended as a substitute for Bordeaux I upon most fruit trees 
in foliage and upon certain vegetables. It is used especially for apples 
and potatoes. The iron sulphate is precipitated by the lime as hy- 
droxide and serves as a dilution sticker. The spray is rust colored be- 
cause of this iron compound. 

Note — A stronger 4-4-8-50 formula may be used on apple, pear 
and plum trees before blossoms open. 

Caution — Do not leave a solution of iron sulphate standing beyond 
a second or third day. It is best to make it fresh for each day. 

7 POTASSIUM SULPHIDE SOLUTION 

Potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur), 1 ounce 

Water, 3 to 4 gallons. 
This solution will not remain unchanged. The potassium sulphide 
must be kept in a well-stoppered bottle. This may be made by a sim- 
ilar process to that of No. 8. 

42 



8 SODIUM SULPHIDE SOLUTION 

Commercial caustic soda, 2V2 pounds 
Flowers of sulphur, 5 pounds 
"Water to make 50 gallons 

To Make Sodium Sulphide at Lowest Cost — Place the caustic soda 
in a metal vessel and add a little hot water. Then stir in sulphur 
gradually, adding meanwhile hot water or applying heat. The chem- 
ical reaction will generate heat. With its progress the color will 
change from yellow to nearly brick red. No heat is required after 
complete solution unless lime is added. Do not add excess of water 
until the solution is effected. It may be made in quantity with external 
heat and kept a day as stock solution. Excess of lime may be added 
with double and triple portions of sulphur to make the possible equiva- 
lent of lime-sulphur solution. 

Caution — This solution is prepared for application on dormant 
trees. Care must be observed. Upon foliage, as of peach, a strength 
greater than 1 pound of caustic soda to 2 pounds of sulphur is not to 
be recommended. 

To make sodium sulphide for treating seed potatoes, use at the 
rate of 1 pound of caustic soda to 10 ounces of sulphur for 36 gallons 
of solution. 

9 SELF-BOILED LIME-SULPHUR MIXTURE 

Stone lime (only), 10 pounds 
Flowers of sulphur, 10 pounds 
Water to make 50 gallons 

An 8-8-50 strength is also used. 

It is best to prepare the mixture in large lots for at least 200 gal- 
lons of spray, using 40 pounds of lime and 40 pounds of sulphur, so 
as to get enough heat to produce a violent boiling for a few minutes. 
Place the lime in a barrel and pour on sufficient water (about 3 gallons 
to every 20 pounds) to start the slaking of the lime and to hold up the 
sulphur. Then add the sulphur after working through a sieve to break 
up the lumps, meanwhile stirring thoroughly; and finally add suffi- 
cient water to slake the lime into a paste. Considerable stirring is 
necessary to prevent caking on the bottom. If mixture tends to be- 
come sticky, a little more water may be added. After the violent 
boiling produced by the slaking of the lime is over, the mixture should 
be diluted ready for spraying, or at least sufficient cold water added 
to stop the cooking — 5 to 15 minutes being required for this, according 
to whether the lime is quick acting or sluggish. The intense heat in 
boiling seems to produce the desired mechanical mixture of the lime 
and sulphur. If allowed to stand too long before dilution, the sulphur 
tends to unite with the lime, and at the end of 30 to 40 minutes suffi- 
cient reddish liquid is produced to burn peach foliage and even apple 
foliage in some cases. Strain through a sieve of about 20 meshes to 
the inch to remove coarse particles of lime, but all of the sulphur 
should be worked through the strainer. For the 10-10-50 strength, 
dilute to 200 gallons. For other strengths, use a different dilution. 

43 



The large disk nozzles are successfully used in the application of this 
spray. 

Proposed by W. M. Scott, U. S. Department of Agriculture, as a 
fungicide for use on peach trees in foliage. Also available on Ameri- 
can and Japanese plums and upon all varieties of cherries. 

Caution — While this may be used upon the peach in foliage and 
upon other fruits, care should be exercised in the preparation of the 
mixture to avoid the formation of soluble sulphides as by use of hot 
water or allowing to stand before dilution, since these result in foliage 
injury from the spray, 

10 LIME-SULPHUR SOLUTIONS 

Lime-sulphur solutions, either derived from commercial prepara- 
tions or from home-boiled concentrates, are often useful fungicides. 
For dormant sprays these are the same as for San Jose scale treatment. 
For foliage applications, greater dilutions are required. Upon apple 
a dilution of 1 part of the concentrate of 32° Beaume is made with 
40 parts of water. 

These solutions are quite weak as fungicides, and as foliage sprays 
have not proved satisfactory where strong germicides are required. 
They have been thus far better adapted to use in apple orchards. See 
formulae 14 to 16. 

101/2 DUST PREPARATIONS (See also No. 16) 

Dust preparations for treatment of apple orchards have been 
tested more or less in certain states, but are only in the experimental 
stage as yet. The tests made at the Cornell Experiment Station indi- 
cate fair promise for combination treatments especially. It has been 
found that finely ground sulphur is most promising as a fungicide. 
This is designated so fine that 95 percent passes a sieve having 200 
meshes to the inch. Coarser sulphur is much less satisfactory. The 
most successful combination employed has been a mixture of 90 percent 
finely ground sulphur and 10 percent powdered arsenate of lead. 

11 FORMALDEHYDE (FORMALIN) SOLUTIONS 

For oat and wheat smuts, 1 pound or pint of 40 percent 

formaldehyde to 40 gallons of water 
For potato scab, I/2 pint of formaldehyde to 15 gallons of 

water 
For cabbage black-leg, i^ pound or pint of formaldehyde to 

6 gallons of water 
For onion smut, 1 pound of formaldehyde to 25 or 33V2 

gallons of water 
For soil drench, 3 pounds or more of formaldehyde to 50 

gallons of water 

See table of Seed and Soil Treatment 

44 



111/2 FORMALDEHYDE GAS 

Commercial 40 percent formaldehyde, 3 pounds 
Potassium permanganate crystals, 23 ounces 
Sufficient for 1,000 cubic feet of space occupied 
by crates or trays. (Maine formula.) 

Inclose open tiers or piles of slat crates filled with dry onions, 
potatoes, and so forth, in tight room or oiled tent of canvas buried in 
earth about the base. Generate the formaldehyde gas in a flat-bot- 
tomed dish or pan of adequate capacity by placing one of the materials, 
as the liquid formaldehyde, in the pan, and adding the other the last 
thing before retiring. Then close tight and allow to remain closed 
24 to 48 hours. 

Proportionate amounts may be taken for smaller or larger inclosed 
spaces. Applicable to fumigation of seed potatoes for rot troubles 
and to newly gathered, dry onions before storing for winter. 



12 CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE (MERCURIC CHLORIDE) 

Corrosive sublimate, 2 ounces 

Water, 151/2 gallons — equal to 1 to 1000 strength 

Label POISON; use for potato scab and for disinfection. 

To hasten solution, have druggist pulverize the mercuric chloride. 

INSECTICIDES 
13 KEROSENE EMULSION 

Laundry soap (chipped), % pound 
Kerosene (coal oil), 2 gallons 
Water (preferably soft and free 
from dirt particles), 1 gallon 

Dissolve the soap in the full amount of water, and when this solu- 
tion is boiling hot remove from the fire and add the kerosene. Stir the 
mixture violently by driving it through a force pump back into the 
vessel until it becomes a creamy mass that will not separate. This 
requires usually from 5 to 15 minutes. For use, dilute one part of 
the emulsion with 8 or 10 parts of water for use on hard-bodied insects 
like the chinch bug. For soft-bodied insects, such as plant lice, lice on 
animals, and so forth, use one part emulsion to 15 or 20 parts of water. 
The stock emulsion will keep good for months if kept in air-tight 
vessels. 

Kerosene emulsion kills by contact, and therefore, the application 
should be thorough. It may be used against a great many different 
pests but is especially valuable for destroying those with sucking 
mouth parts, for they cannot be killed with arsenical poisons. 

Caution — Only the dilute emulsion, 1 part emulsion to 15 or 20 
parts of water, should be used when the trees are in leaf, and in all 

45 



cases it should be kept thoroughly stirred; otherwise the foliage or 
even the twigs will be injured. Applications of this insecticide are 
much safer if made only on dry, sunshiny days, not scorching hot, 
preferably with a light breeze blowing, so as to hasten evaporation, 
and thus minimize danger to the plants. 

14 LIME-SULI'HUR WASH 

Stone lime, 12 to 15 pounds 

(Hydrated lime % more) 

Flowers of sulphur, 15 pounds 
"Water, 50 gallons 

Slake the lime in a small quantity of hot water, gradually adding 
and stirring in the sulphur. Dilute mixture with 12 gallons of water 
and boil in an iron kettle or cook by steam in a covered tank or barrel 
for 1 hour or longer. Fill with water to the required 50 gallons. 
Strain the wash through a fine-mesh strainer and apply hot. In using 
an iron kettle, keep the mixture vigorously boiling and thoroughly 
stirred to prevent caking and burning of the materials. When the 
wash is cooked by steam, it is more easily prepared and better made. 

Apply wash in spring before buds open or in fall after leaves 
drop. Cover all parts of the tree with a heavy coat of the wash. If 
a single application is made each year for scale insects, especially for 
San Jose scale, it is advised that the treatment be given in the early 
spring. Where infestation is excessive, one spraying should be given 
in the fall after the leaves drop, and a second the following spring 
before the leaves appear. Also in case of large orchards it may be 
necessary to commence work in the fall so as to insure its completion 
before vernation in spring. Cover every bit of bark on every tree 
to insure success. 

This remedy is perfectly safe in anybody's hands, if used during 
the dormant period. It is also a fungicide and controls peach leaf 
curl as well as San Jose scale. 

This is one of the early formulae for making lime-sulphur solution. 
The only objection to it is the great quantity of sediment which must 
be removed by straining. Even when carefully strained, it frequently 
clogs pumps and nozzles with accumulations of dirt. Notwithstanding 
this drawback, some of our best orchardists have returned to its use 
after a few years' trial of the commercial mixtures, being convinced 
that it is more effective for controlling scale insects. 

15 COMMERCIAL LIME-SULPHUR SOLUTIONS 

These are convenient to use, being free from sediment and requir- 
ing no preparation other than stirring into water. When properly 
made and properly diluted, these mixtures are thoroughly reliable. 
The most convenient method for diluting the mixtures is by the 
hydrometer test. The standard liquid should test 33° on the Beaume 
hydrometer and should contain 2.7 pounds of sulphur to a gallon of 
undiluted liquid. For use, such a liquid should be diluted at the rate 
of 1 gallon of lime-sulphur to 7 gallons of water. 

46 



TABLE OF DILUTIONS FOR DORMANT AND SUMMER SPRAYING WITH 
LIME-SULPHUR MIXTURES 



Reading on hydrometer 


Number of gallons of water to one gallon of lime-sulphur 
solution 




For San Jose scale 
Winter use 


For summer spraying 
of apples 


Degrees Beaume 
35 


8.00 
7.50 
7.00 
6.50 
6.00 
5.50 
5.25 
5.00 
5.00 
5.00 
4.50 
4.25 
4.00 
3.50 
3.25 
3.00 
2.75 
2.50 
2.50 
2.00 
2.00 
1.75 


45.00 


34 


43.00 


33 


40.00 


32 


37.50 


31 


36.00 


30 5 . 


34.00 


29 


33.00 


28 ; 


31.00 


27 


29.50 


26 


28.00 


25 


26.00 


24 


24.00 


23 


23.00 


22 


21.00 


21 


20.00 


20 


18.00 


19 


17.00 


18 


16.00 


17 


15.00 


16 «.... 


14.00 


15 


13.00 


14 


12.00 







The foregoing table records the minimum strengths to be used for 
San Jose scale. The mixture can be used at twice the strength recom- 
mended in the table, or even stronger, and no ill effects will follow, 
but by so doing the expense is considerably increased and no practical 
advantage is gained. The summer strengths should in no case be 
increased beyond the figures given in the table. 

16 POWDERED SULPHUR PREPARATIONS 

These materials are comparatively recent developments in an 
attempt to secure a highly concentrated sulphur spray. Several brands 
are on the market at the present time. Briefly stated, the results, 
while somewhat variable, were promising for scale control. Until 
more is known concerning them, they should not be used as summer 
foliage sprays. Use according to directions on the container. 

17 SOAP SOLUTIONS 

One pound of fish-oil soap or laundry soap in 4 to 7 gallons of 
water is a good spray against plant lice. 



18 SOLUBLE OR MISCIBLE OIL 

Some commercial houses make brands of oil that readily mix in 
cold water. They are used as dormant applications against San Jose 
scale, maple terrapin scale, magnolia scale, maple cottony scale and 
others which the lime-sulphur wash will not control. They are espe- 
cially valuable for destroying scale on old, rough-barked apple and 
pear trees. The ordinary rate of dilution is 1 gallon to 15 gallons 
of water. 

47 



19 PARIS GREEN 

In combination with Bordeaux mixture, Paris green may be used 
at the rate of 1 pound in from 50 to 150 gallons. 

When Bordeaux mixture is unnecessary, the Paris green may be 
used at the same rate, but 2 or 3 pounds of freshly slaked lime must 
be added to prevent burning of the foliage. Keep the mixture well 
stirred so that the poison will be distributed evenly. 

In cases where successive sprayings are necessary, it is important 
to consider the accumulation of the poison and consequent danger of 
injury to foliage from soluble arsenic. Arsenate of lead is safer for 
continuous use. 

When diluted with 20 parts by volume of ground lime or cheap 
flour Paris green may be applied with a dusting machine or shaken 
from a cheese cloth bag on potato vines to kill the Colorado potato 
beetle. 

20 COMMERCIAL ARSENATE OF LEAD 

This poison is in many respects the most satisfactory for spraying 
purposes of any of the arsenicals. It is more adhesive than Paris green 
and if properly made of good materials will burn foliage but little, 
no matter what strength is used. The paste form is used at the rate 
of 2 to 5 pounds in 50 gallons of spray and the powdered product at 
from 1 to 3 pounds. For average use 3 pounds of the paste or 1% 
pounds of the powder is the most frequent recommendation. The 
paste form should not be allowed to freeze or dry out. If either 
happens, the addition of soap at the rate of 2 pounds to 50 gallons of 
diluted spray assists materially in keeping the lead in suspension. 
Water, Bordeaux mixture, No. 6 or lime-sulphur solution may be used 
as the carrier. The powdered material may be applied in the dry form 
as a dust. 



21 ARSENITE OF SODA 

Dissolve 2 pounds of commercial white arsenic and 4 pounds of 
carbonate of soda (washing soda) in 2 gallons of boiling water and 
use from 1 quart to 3 pints to a barrel of Bordeaux mixture (50 
gallons). 

Orchardists often use 1 pint of this poison with the addition of ly^ 
pounds of commercial arsenate of lead in 50 gallons of Bordeaux for 
spraying apples. Results seem nearly as good against codling worm 
as when full-strength arsenate of lead is used, but more burning of 
the leaves occurs. 

The easiest way to make the solution is to put both the white 
arsenic and carbonate of soda in a gallon of boiling water and keep 
boiling about 15 minutes, or until a clear liquid is formed, and then 
dilute to 2 gallons for stock solution, 

Caution — This cannot be used alone safely, but must be applied in 
Bordeaux mixture. It is not safe in lime-sulphur. 

48 



22 ARSENITE OF LIME 

White arsenic, 1 pound 
Lime, 2 pounds 
Water, 3 gallons 

Boil together for fully 40 minutes after the boiling point is 
reached. As a precaution against danger of burning, slake 2 or 3 ad- 
ditional pounds of lime, put the milk in 3 or 4 gallons of water, and 
add to the boiled mixture. Strain and dilute to from 200 to 250 
gallons for hardy vegetation such as potatoes. Do not use at all on 
stone fruits or on cucurbits. Dilute to 300 or 400 gallons for tender 
vegetation. It is safer when used in Bordeaux mixture. 

23 WHITE HELLEBORE 

Because it loses its poisonous properties quickly, hellebore may be 
employed to spray fruits a few days before harvest when arsenical 
sprays would be dangerous. Use 1 ounce to 3 gallons of water. 

24 PYRETHRUM 

Pyrethrum is usually applied as a powder with a bellows, but may 
be used as a spray at the rate of 1 ounce to 2 gallons of water. Poison- 
ous to insects but not to higher animals. Can be used on ripening 
fruits. By closing up rooms containing flies and mosquitoes, then 
filling the air full of the dust by means of a blow-gun, and keeping 
closed for several hours, preferably over night, most of the insects will 
be either killed or stupefied and will drop to the floor. They should 
then be swept up and destroyed. 

25 NICOTINE SULPHATE. TOBACCO DECOCTION 

Nicotine sulphate is a commercial preparation much used for the 
destruction of aphids and sucking insects. It is readily used in com- 
bination with Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead and somewhat 
less safely in combination with lime-sulphur solution and arsenate of 
lead. WTien used alone in water some soapsuds should be added to 
enhance its spreading qualities. 

To make a decoction of tobacco, boil 1 pound of tobacco stems 
or tobacco dust in 1 gallon of water for about 1 hour. Strain to 
remove dirt that would clog nozzle, and add water to make 2 gallons 
of spray for each pound of tobacco used. Excellent for plant lice and 
does no injury to the most tender plants. Some of the commercial 
decoctions or preparations of nicotine are better than the homemade 
ones. 

26 BISULPHIDE OF CARBON 

This is a convenient fumigant for treating granaries, bins and 
closed compartments which contain stored grain, groceries and food- 
stuffs being injured by insects, provided the temperature is above 
70° F. Make the compartment tight if possible by pasting paper 

49 



strips over cracks and openings. When everything is made tight, 
pour the liquid on burlap sacks laid on top of the grain, using about 
5 to 8 pounds or pints for every 1,000 cubic feet of space inclosed in 
the bin. A good way to distribute the liquid for rapid and effective 
action is to spray it over the grain through a small opening near the 
top of the bin, using a small spray pump. If the first method is used 
as soon as the dosage has been completed, close the door and make it 
tight. Keep closed for 40 hours, then open and air thoroughly. Do 
not bring a lighted lantern or fire of any kind near the bin while 
fumigation is in progress as this gas is inflammable. Sometimes treat- 
ments at intervals of a few weeks apart are advisable in ease the bins 
are not tight. Fumigation according to these directions will not 
injure grain for either feed or seed. This material can be used for 
fumigating woolens and furs infested with clothes moths. Place the 
article to be fumigated in a tight chest or trunk and saturate a sponge 
or mass of cotton with the carbon bisulphide at the proportions given 
above. Leave the chest closed for 48 hours or more, and if the goods 
are to be stored, place in tight chests or sew in paper bags. Carbon 
tetrachloride can be substituted for carbon bisulphide in clothes chests, 
but it should be used in approximately double the amounts. It has 
the advantage of being less offensive in odor, and not being inflam- 
mable is much safer for household use. 



27 POISONED BAIT FOR CUTWORMS, GRASSHOPPERS, 

SLUGS, ETC. 

Cutworms are quite readily destroyed by a poisoned bran bait 
made as follows : With 25 to 35 pounds of coarse wheat bran, thoroughly 
mix, while dry, one pound of Paris green or an equal weight of pow- 
dered white arsenic. Chop fine six lemons or six oranges and add 
juice, rinds and all to the ingredients. Dilute 1 quart of any cheap 
syrup with 2 or 3 gallons of water and mix with the bran and arsenic. 
Add sufficient water to wet all the bran, but do not have it sloppy 
when ladeled. This bait is scattered over infested lands in little heaps, 
which keep moist longer if covered with pieces of board ; the cutworms 
are more likely to find the poison when thus hidden, since they retreat 
to such locations for hiding during the day. A teaspoonful of the 
mixture put at the base of each garden plant liable to attack will 
afford good protection. If the plants are in drilled rows, a line of the 
bait may be placed along each side of the row. It is always best when 
possible, to put the bait in gardens when freshly plowed, before the 
crops are planted; the worms finding nothing above ground to eat 
but the bait, feed on it greedily and are destroyed before the crop 
is planted. 

If the bait is to be scattered for grasshoppers best results may be 
expected in Ohio when it is distributed early in the morning. It 
should be sown broadcast either on foot or from a light wagon or 
buggy. A broadcast grain seeder mounted on a wagon has been used 
successfully for this purpose in the western parts of the United States. 
From 1 to 5 days is required for the grasshoppers to die off in con- 
spicuous numbers. 

50 



Another good bait for cutworms and grasshoppers is obtained by 
spraying a patch of clover or other succulent vegetation with Paris 
green, one-half pound to 50 gallons of water, or with arsenate of lead, 
3 pounds to 50 gallons of water. A few hours after spraying, the 
poisoned grass is cut with a scythe or mowing machine and scattered 
in little heaps over the infested land. These piles should be made 
large enough to prevent rapid drying out of the under portions, or 
the grass may be placed under boards like the bran bait. 



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